The front surf. I remember a friend saying once, "We are all just in search of the front surf." No, that wasn't a quote from Point Break although I wish Patrick Swayze was a friend of mine.
At the time he was mostly referencing whitewater kayaking but then the conversation started to get a little deeper. May have been a few col-col's involved. But really, it was fun to think about how great that feeling really is and how so many of us - human and animal work so hard to get it.
Whether it's in a river, on the ocean, or in the air, just thinking about the possibilities of getting into precisely the right spot to be propelled forward by another force is as close as we can get to what it must feel like to be a bird in flight.
Speaking of birds, they love it too. I'm sure you've seen it; a duck on a wave in the river, a pelican surfing a thermal off an ocean wave, or an eagle soaring a thermal waaaay up high.
It would be so awesome to have wings.
So, why doesn't everybody surf? The consequences are pretty intense. In any of the sports where you get that great feeling, likely there is a painful consequence. In the river, it's a rock in your face, in the ocean, it's getting beat up and pushed down by the water (not breathing) oh, and then there's the hard board to contend with. In paragliding there's well, the ground. In the snow, there's the trees and steep slope, you get my point - you gotta be willing to pay the beatdown for the hot second of surf and well, it just so happens that it's worth it. Really.
Moving from surfing rivers and snow to surfing ocean waves has come with a lot to learn. Swells, tides, wind, wave height, periods, storms, break, currents, secondary, primary, ughhh, it's a lot and it's always different depending on where you go. The best part though? The water is always warm. No need for a drysuit or wetsuit here.
I was going to bore you with a bunch of technical information on why the surf is great here but instead put together another one of my masterpiece movies for you. While Hollywood knocks, take a look at what it's like here and why we decided this was just one of the reasons to build our little Eco Resort here.
We hope your year is off to a great start!
Your Friends in Morrillo,
Cari and Ryan Mackey
Owners and Hosts
Morrillo Beach Eco Resort