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Taking the Train to Totality



To some it might seem crazy: My train trip to upstate New York, and back in the evening. That’s about 15 hours of train traveling for 3 minutes of solar total darkness.

 

What it worth it? Words simply can’t describe it.

 

I had figured out that if I left on the 8:35 AM Adirondack train I could make it to Port Henry in the middle of nowhere, upstate New York, before the 3:26 solar eclipse totality. There are only two trains a day: one up and one back down from Montreal. That train was scheduled to arrive in Port Henry at 4:12 PM. So I could take that train back down to New York City, then take the Long Island Railroad by to my house.

 

That was the plan, and in fact, it happened. I left my house at 6:30 AM and arrived back past 11:30 PM.



I actually thought I was one of the few people who had figured this out. Others were spending thousands of dollars on various forms of transportation and hotels and housing. I would be spending less than $200.

 

I got on the Adirondack and it was full, sold out. And over 140 of them were planning to go to the tiny town of Port Henry. As the train made its way north we saw large numbers of cars pulled off to the side of the road.

 

After a short nap I headed for the café car where I usually stay when I take the train. There was a festive atmosphere on the train, with a large variety of people including many families. The train menu was surprisingly healthy a few years ago but it has gone downhill since then. It is still possible to find some healthy items such as oatmeal and fruit. But there is no longer a salad without chicken.

 

It was almost impossible to find the proper dark glasses on Long Island once I decided to go. But I eventually found 2 that came in a kit with a children’s book on the eclipse at the science museum in Port Washington. I brought the book with me and dozens of children and parents read the book on the train and passed it around.

 

The train took a while to unload at Port Henry. The was probably the biggest event there in a long time. Local people had set up tables with food and other goods in anticipation. There was a big hill behind the train station and people started spreading their blankets all the way up the hill.

 

After about an hour we saw through our glasses that the moon had begun its trip across the sun. The skies gradually began to darken and it was getting colder. Even when the moon had covered most of the sun it was still relatively light out. But when it was completely covered it got so dark the outside lights of the train station came on, and yes, you could see the stars. Everyone had their glasses on and could see the light outline of the sun, covered by the moon. There was silence. At that point you could look at the sun without the glasses. Then the was applause!




I few feet away from me there was a little boy whose mother later told me he was three years old. He looked straight at me and simply said “Wow!” with incredulity.

 

But then the strangest part happened, and I can’t really explain it. As the sliver of light appeared on the other side of the sun, everything looked eerie and ghostlike. It should have been the same as just before the sun disappeared, but it wasn’t, and everyone I talked to agreed.

 

Gradually it got lighter, but it was now quite a bit colder and many people put their jackets on.

 

The train from Montreal was about 15 minutes late, so the platform was pretty jammed when the train arrived. On the way back I sat with a high school student who had walked beyond the hill and down to the lake. His experience was quite special as he described how the seagulls made a lot of noise and then went quiet during totality. As the families left the train on their stops on the way back to New York, many of them said goodbye and even waved at me from outside the train.

 

I finally got back to my house on Long Island near midnight. I can’t wait until we have the next eclipse—oh wait! I won’t be around. Never mind!

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