The NEEDLE'S EYE... Trends and Technologies Driving the Sewn Products Industry
The NEEDLE'S EYE!
May 2024
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Out of the Past
Needle's Eye Front Cover – April 1969
In this issue of THE NEEDLE'S EYE, we continue with our front cover series for 1969 which highlights some of the great inventions that have affected our lives in the twentieth century.
On the April cover, we have featured a Duryea which is actually a later model of a car first introduced by J. Frank Duryea and his brother Charles in 1892. The Duryea was the first car in America. The car shown here won the first automobile race in America which was held in Chicago on Thanksgiving Day, in 1895. The Duryea won with an average speed of 7 miles/hour. Whew!
Sweatshop Era
Much of the garment production happened at home, with entire families, including children, toiling away. These weren't regulated workplaces, leading to unsafe and unhealthy conditions. garmentdistrict.nyc/history
Immigrant Labor
The industry relied heavily on immigrant labor, especially in the bustling Lower East Side of New York City. Many Jewish immigrants ended up in cramped, unsanitary apartments while working long hours for meager pay.
Shifting Production
While home sewing was common, factories were starting to emerge. New inventions like the sewing machine were slowly changing how clothes were made.
Overall, the U.S. clothing industry in 1895 was characterized by exploitation, poor working conditions, and a shift toward factory production.
As we continue, then, with our great inventions series, we hope that you will find the covers of THE NEEDLE'S EYE both interesting and informative.
In 2024 see Zünd at: • MRO Americas – Chicago, IL – April 9-11 • ISA Sign Expo – Orlando, FL – April 10-12 • Texprocess – Frankfurt, GER – April 23-26 • Drupa – Dusseldorf, GER – May 28-June 7 • Furniture Manufacturing Expo – Hickory, NC – June 13-14 • Foam Expo – Novi, MI – June 25-27 • Techtextil North America – Raleigh, NC – August 20-22 • CamX – San Diego, CA – September 9-12 • Printing United – Las Vegas, NV – September 10-12 • Advanced Textiles Expo – Anaheim, CA – September 24-26 • IBEX – Tampa, FL – October 1-3 • Packex Montreal – Montreal, Canada • November 13-14
Industry Opinion
What the Fashion World Needs Now
Reference icont.ac/4Xzhf: Opinions 1 to 3 on ‘de minimis loophole’ and related pledges
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Editing Director of HEINEN MARKETS + MEDIA Germany/Belgium – The Needle’s Eye Senior International Correspondent
I (100 percent) agree with the previous issue of The Needle's Eye opinions: Charlie Merrow’s (Opinion 1: A Polite Reminder) and Frank Henderson’s (Opinion 2: A Commitment to Our People) analyses of the “polylemma” our industry faces, in many respects caused by itself, ourselves. And I doubtlessly severely support The Coalition’s (Opinion 3: Coalition to Close the De Minimis Loophole) fight against the tragic consequences in particular for the American people with the de minimis loophole enabling (not to say allowing) as well unrestricted fentanyl/drug imports into the US.
And what do we do now with all our insight and realization?
I take the liberty to assume for all of us to agree even free trade – textile and first of all the apparel industry is calling for – needs regulation. As well here in Europe with the EU Supply Chain Act, the so-called “Green Deal” is finally in the bag, and with the soon-to-be-approved EU Ban against Forced Labor solid steps in the right direction have been initiated. [The bad news: within the EU, the duty and control-free loophole for direct shipments from China with a value of goods plus direct shipping costs of up to € 150 (US$163) remains unlocked for the time being.]
However, the next challenge is waiting around the corner with the demanding necessity for functional administrative assets to control and to charge fines (drastic ones, please).
On top of making free and trade fair, we’d talk about global regulations - equal rules applying to everyone in the game. (ambitious goals indeed).
Until we get there I certainly want to work and support such a vision. Here’s my pledge for achievable progress that we as an industry can advance independently of trade barriers and all geopolitical issues (more likely increasing than decreasing).
What we desperately need for everything and anything is awareness.
In my eyes as an industry we pretty much fail – locally as well as anyway globally –to talk to our customers, the consumers at the end of the supply chain – our judges – to remain with Dave Gardner's metaphor. Single brand statements under the buzzword “Sustainability” in the website menu are just not good enough to make consumers anticipate what clothing quality actually means and in detail, how to recognize and proof it, and why it makes a lot of sense for the end user to care for quality.
Instead of being able to judge the value of a piece of garment, consumers are getting more and more confused. Which certifications are in place for apparel of various kinds? What verification processes ensure reliability to me as an end-user for the inflation of eco-labels on all those hang tags with garment products? Why does some fast fashion fall apart after a few washes and how does it pollute our environment? Why one online store can offer the T-shirt with the funny print application at US$3.50 while it costs US$13.95 at the other?
What does it take and cause to produce woven, knitted fabrics, textile materials of all kinds, and leather – to process those into a wide variety of attractive clothing and (if ever possible?) at the same time protect nature? Could garments with unclear origin harm health (mine and that of my kids)? What would it take to possibly recycle a garment for a 2nd life and to comply with fair and social standards for the people doing the work?
Who – if not us – would tell consumers that sourcing and production of all the chic garment pieces in a more sustainable fashion requires more thoughtful measures, investments, and responsible actions on the part of both manufacturers and consumers?
The willingness of consumers to pay 10%-20% more for clothing that complies with ecological and social standards can only grow through trust and a basic knowledge of the background. And the same goes for the realization of the fact that fewer high-quality items will cost more, due to their durability and wearing pleasure without regrets and remorse.
Therefore, what we – the World of Fashion & Apparel needs is a Fashion Anti-Inflation Act and the associated Consumer Education Campaign, implemented with joint (financial) forces on a global level. Urgently, of course, the educational institutions and their curricula need to be included here. Ideally, eco-engaged prominent role models such as British fashion designer Stella McCartney, singer/songwriter Pharell Williams plus Robert Redford, with his Sundance initiative for 50+ target groups could act as ambassadors to support our mutual mission.
And yes, I have this dream of a highly professional campaign handled by one of the top MarCom agencies, experienced in the development of market-driven concepts with a high degree of attention, one that masters the entire range of communication channels – analog as well as digital – for their client: the global apparel community.
Let us recognize in togetherness climate protection, the preservation of our environment, the living conditions it offers to all people, and the need for smart usage of all limited resources as a market opening (an opportunity instead of a threat). And let us launch the vision accordingly by joining forces, by talking unisono (for once) with one strong voice for targeted, complete, and honest messaging.
What I am much more pondering on than the indeed essential question of a budget: How to kick such an initiative off? Which organization(s) has the capacity and capability to take the lead and buy the broad community in?
In cordial solidarity, Yvonne
C and C Enterprise has teamed up with JACK, one of the world’s finest industrial sewing machine manufacturers, to form Jack of the Americas. Jack of the Americas distributes JACK machines throughout North America, Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean Basin. When you buy from Jack of The Americas, we don’t just ship you a box! We help you get set up and answer any questions you may have! With over 100 years of combined experience in the industrial sewn products industry, we are proud to say that we are one of the world’s leading industrial sewing products authorities and are here to serve you! Not sure if Jack is right for you? Click on the button below for a short video showing off some of our machines. Watch it and see what Jack can do for you!
UpFront with Consew
Consew: Beyond Sewing Machines – A Legacy of Innovation and Quality
by Dave Gardner, Editor/Publisher, The Needle's Eye
Since its inception in 1898, Consew has evolved from a renowned manufacturer of industrial sewing machines into a diverse family of companies catering to various facets of the sewing, cutting, embroidery, and pressing industries.
Murray Feit purchased Consew from The Renco Group, Inc. (Ira Rennert) in 1995. Renco had previously purchased Consolidated Sewing Machine Co. in 1975. Consolidated Sewing Machine Co. was a prominent manufacturer of sewing machines based in New York City. Throughout its history, Consolidated Sewing Machine Co. played a significant role in the sewing machine industry, producing a range of machines for both industrial and domestic use.
Today, under the leadership of the Feits (Murray, Michael, and David), the corporation encompasses a spectrum of entities, each contributing to its rich legacy of innovation and quality craftsmanship.
In addition to the Consew line of sewing machines, Consew's portfolio includes Meistergram, Unlimited Parts & Supplies (UPSI), Chandler Machine USA, U.S. Blindstitch, and Clinton Industries. Read More >
The Pathfinder M-Series® range of automated cutting machines is known for precision, very high productivity, reliability, and lowest power consumption. All 16 models are easily configured to suit most cutting applications, and, thanks to clever design, Pathfinder cutters require very little maintenance to continually deliver exceptional cut quality over a long working life.
Industry News
Coloreel Expands into the Sewing Industry Through Partnership with Juki America
In a joint announcement, Juki America and Coloreel revealed a partnership that will extend Coloreel’s innovative thread dyeing technology to the sewing industry.
Coloreel is the world’s only printer for on-demand thread dyeing. With Coloreel, Juki sewing machines can now access millions of precise colors in real-time.
Juki’s distributors will get exclusive rights to market and sell Coloreel for sewing machines within North and South America. The first official installation of Coloreel paired with a Juki sewing machine will be at FABRIC Incubator in Arizona, USA, a leading fashion incubator and garment manufacturer that supports up-and-coming designers. Read More >
Diamond Needle Corp., Founded in 1951, is one of the world’s largest distributors of sewing machine needles. Our alliance with ORGAN NEEDLE CO. of Japan, as their exclusive North American distributor, gives us the backing of the world’s leading quality maker of sewing machine needles.
Industry Technologies
Slice and Dice: Mastering the Art of Cut Planning
By Joe Altieri: Mentor, Educator, Trainer, Adjunct Professor FIT
Cut planning is the logical division of an order quantity into lays (spreads) of fabric so that the desired number of garment pieces can be cut in the required size ratio. It is performed to minimize time and effort in marker making, spreading, and cutting; as well as to maximize fabric utilization.
Why is maximizing fabric utilization important?
$$$$$$$$$$$$
Fabric can make up 50% - 65% of your total garment costs. This number can run higher depending on your market.
The cut planning process is triggered by a purchase order (PO). A retailer will either tour a showroom or meet with an account executive from a wholesaler or manufacturer. Products are selected from a lookbook or samples and an order is generated. Read More >
Supply Chain
Forced Labor in the Clothing Industry is Rampant and Hidden. This AI-powered Search Platform Can Expose it.
By Schuyler Velasco, Northeastern Global News Magazine senior writer
Developed by Northeastern University researchers, Supply Trace combines machine learning and on-the-ground investigation to track goods from apparel companies to regions with a high risk of forced labor.
Almost all of the clothing sold in America comes from overseas, making a long journey on a shipping container to a domestic port. Peer inside any apparel shipment bound for customs checkpoints, groaning with t-shirts leggings, or underwear, and you’ll probably see tags hinting at their origins: Made in Vietnam, China, and Indonesia. If you think about it any further, you may suppose that they took a straightforward journey from a factory in that country, eventually reaching the shelves of a store or e-retail warehouse and going into a shopping basket. Read More >
EU Ban on Products Made with Forced Labor — Fierce Control and Non-Compliance Mechanisms Planned
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
March 6 negotiators from the EU Parliament and Council reached a provisional agreement on new rules that ban products made with forced labor from entering the EU market. The new regulation would create a framework for enforcing this ban, through investigations, new IT solutions, and cooperation with other authorities and countries.
According to the agreed text, national authorities or, if third countries are involved, the EU Commission, will investigate the suspected use of forced labor in companies’ supply chains.
If the investigation concludes that forced labor has been used, the authorities can demand that relevant goods be withdrawn from the EU market and online marketplaces and confiscated at the borders. The goods would then have to be donated, recycled, or destroyed. Goods of strategic or critical importance for the Union may be withheld until the company eliminates forced labor from its supply chains. On top of that, organizations that do not comply can get charged with fines. Read More >
Americas 21st — all-in-one supplier for Sewing Manufacturing Equipment, Automation, Training, Design, and Services!
C and C Enterprise is the United States agency for Highlead sewing machines. These high-quality machines are available for your sewing needs and are sold only through local dealers and distributors. If you want more information on the Highlead brand, please feel free to contact us. www.candcenterprise.com
Intelligent Textiles
Planning, Developing, and Expanding DPC Concepts
By Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Designing an end-to-end holistic transformation process
Digital Product Creation (DPC) forms the technological core of the holistic transformation process - for self-manufacturing apparel companies as well as companies of all sizes that focus on multi-channel distribution and rely partly or completely on partner procurement.
The path to scaling the vision of fully digital product development is challenging. Instead of tech euphoria, a pragmatic approach to new technologies is recommended.
Option: operate on a platform basis
Companies that do not have a high-performance IT department of their own are not alone in opting for platform-based working methods to implement integrated end-to-end solutions in line with requirements. Read More >
World of Fashion
Tribute to Iris Apfel - Style Icon and Fashion Ambassador Passed Away at the Age of 102
by Yvonne Heinen-Foudeh, Senior International Correspondent
Short white-grey haircut, wide-framed, large glasses, bright red lipstick, and a plethora of accessories – it's immediately clear who we're talking about – Iris Apfel, who worked in the interiors and fashion industries throughout her career, shot to international fame in her 80s and 90s after New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibited a full collection of her eclectic clothes and accessories in 2005. Now the fashion icon, also known for her sharp-tongued humor, has passed away – Iris Apfel died on March 1 at the age of 102 at her home in Palm Beach, Florida.
After a successful career as an interior designer, the New Yorker embarked on a second career in her late 80s and became known worldwide as a model, style icon, and fashion ambassador. In 2005, the Metropolitan Museum asked her if she could contribute something for a replacement presentation due to a failed fashion exhibition. Iris Apfel could.
During the subsequent visit, an incredible collection of unusual statement pieces, outfits, and accessories opened up before the astonished eyes of the curators. It was the first time The MET had dedicated an exhibition to the wardrobe of a personality.
Thanks to the exhibition and her active presence in the fashion world over the following 20 years, the senior lady became world-famous for her individual and original style. Until her old age, she was a regular guest at fashion shows, to which she last appeared in a wheelchair.
Interior architecture & design for the White HouseApfel was also successful as an entrepreneur. Together with her late husband Carl Apfel, whom she married in 1948, she set up the brand Old World Weavers – a company that specialized in striking textiles informed by things found on both their travels. Under Old World Weavers, the duo completed high-profile projects such as restoring the White House interiors for nine presidents including Harry Truman and Bill Clinton. Read More >
Industry Events
Furniture Manufacturing Expo – The Show for Home Furnishings Manufacturers
Furniture Manufacturing Expo is the opportunity to take part in the only trade show in North America showcasing the largest gathering of suppliers and the latest solutions for manufacturers of home furnishings. Over two days, attendees have the chance to engage with exhibiting suppliers and see first-hand the latest innovative products, equipment, and machinery as well as gain a better understanding of the services and new technology making a critical impact on warehousing, logistics, finance, and the bottom line. The show also features an engaging education program developed by leaders in the upholstery, woodworking, and consulting industries. Professionals of all management levels involved in the manufacturing of home furnishings should attend. Companies that produce, design, develop, and manufacture products and equipment, as well as offer services and solutions for the home furnishings manufacturing industry should exhibit. https://www.furnituremanufacturingexpo.com/
Techtextil North America 2024
August 20-22, 2024North Carolina State FairgroundsRaleigh, North Carolina, USA
North America’s only dedicated show for technical textiles and nonwovens. Techtextil North America assembles all vertical aspects of the technical textile industry: from research and development, through raw materials and production processes and finally ending in conversion, further treatment, and recycling.
Various industry groups, including the EU and the United Nations, have advocated for initiatives supporting circular economies, especially those in the textile industry. New machines, businesses, and innovations are closing the loop on textile waste, allowing businesses to consume fewer resources and decrease the carbon output of machinery.
Be part of this industry transformation! Techtextil North America gathers industry experts, thought leaders, and forward-thinking companies under one roof. It offers a platform to: • Discover new software to track recycling data• Discuss best practices and make B2B connections• Explore cutting-edge technologies and products
For a limited time, save BIG on Exhibit Hall & Symposium passes with early bird pricing! Review the full pricing structure here.
Be part of this industry transformation! Techtextil North America gathers industry experts, thought leaders, and forward-thinking companies under one roof. It offers a platform to: • Discover new software to track recycling data• Discuss best practices and make B2B connections• Explore cutting-edge technologies and products
For a limited time, save BIG on Exhibit Hall & Symposium passes with early bird pricing! Review the full pricing structure here.
FEBRATEX 2024
August 20–23, 2024Vila Germânica ParkBlumenau, Santa Catarina, Brazil
With 35,000+ square meters of exhibition area serving all textile/apparel sectors, Febratex 2024 brings to the textile scene innovations and technologies from national and international exhibitors. Febratex needs no further introduction, being the largest fair in the Americas, receiving 58 thousand visitors in the last edition. The event is already part of the calendar in the city of Blumenau, in Santa Catarina, bringing together the largest companies in the textile and clothing sector. So much so that, for this edition, there is a waiting list for exhibitors. In 2024, Vila Germânica will host Febratex between the 20th and 23rd of August, from 2 pm to 9 pm each day.
JIAM 2024
JIAM 2024 OSAKA will be held at INTEX Osaka from Wednesday – Saturday, November 27-30, 2024, under the theme ‘It all connects at JIAM - the forefront of technology and master craftsmanship’. Many major manufacturers and organizations have expressed their participation in the trade show as exhibitors.
Since JIAM started accepting registrations for exhibitors in September 2023, they have received many inquiries from companies and organizations in Japan and overseas. As for overseas exhibitors, KRISHNA LAMICOAT PVT. LTD (India), INL International(Singapore), and 4 companies including new exhibitor Wuhan Golden Laser have applied from China which had travel restrictions due to COVID-19 at the last edition of JIAM in 2022.
JASMA will continuously promote JIAM 2024 OSAKA to the organizers, its exhibitors, and related organizations at industry-related trade shows held in Japan as well as at sewing-related trade shows. For upcoming fairs, DTG 2024 in Dhaka (Bangladesh) in February, DTC 2024 in Shenzhen (China) in March, and Texprocess (Frankfurt) 2024 in April.
JASMA will continuously promote JIAM 2024 OSAKA to the organizers, its exhibitors, and related organizations at industry-related trade shows held in Japan as well as at sewing-related trade shows. For upcoming fairs, DTG 2024 in Dhaka (Bangladesh) in February, DTC 2024 in Shenzhen (China) in March, and Texprocess (Frankfurt) 2024 in April.